Linen Shirt Sizing for Australian and NZ Men: Conversion Guide
Australia & New Zealand
Australian and New Zealand men's shirt sizing tracks US alpha sizing almost exactly, so an AU L is generally a US L. European brands size by collar measurement in centimetres, where AU L is roughly a 41 to 42. With linen specifically, size up if you are between sizes. The cut is close through the shoulder and armhole, and linen has no stretch.
Sizing is the single biggest reason Australians and New Zealanders hesitate before buying a shirt from overseas, and it is a reasonable hesitation. Returning a shirt across an ocean costs real money. This page exists to get it right the first time.
AU, NZ, US and EU conversion
Australia and New Zealand use the same alpha system and it maps cleanly onto US sizing. European brands mostly use collar centimetres, UK brands mostly use collar inches.
| AU / NZ / US | Chest (cm) | Chest (in) | EU collar (cm) | UK collar (in) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 86 to 91 | 34 to 36 | 37 | 14.5 |
| S | 92 to 97 | 36 to 38 | 38 | 15 |
| M | 98 to 104 | 38.5 to 41 | 39 to 40 | 15.5 to 16 |
| L | 105 to 112 | 41.5 to 44 | 41 to 42 | 16.5 to 17 |
| XL | 113 to 120 | 44.5 to 47 | 43 to 44 | 17.5 to 18 |
| 2XL | 121 to 128 | 47.5 to 50 | 45 to 46 | 18.5 to 19 |
Treat this as a starting point rather than gospel. Alpha sizing is not standardised, and one brand's L is another's M. Always check the brand's own measurements against your own.
How do I measure myself properly?
Four measurements, a soft tape, and five minutes. Do it over a thin shirt or bare skin, not over a jumper.
Chest. Around the fullest part, usually just under the armpits, tape level all the way round and snug but not pulled tight. Breathe normally. This is the measurement that matters most for a shirt.
Neck. Around the base of the neck where a collar sits, with one finger between tape and skin. Only relevant for European and UK brands that size by collar.
Shoulder. From the bony point of one shoulder across the back to the other. This is the measurement people skip and it is the one that cannot be fixed by anything. A shirt too narrow in the shoulder will never sit right regardless of chest room.
Sleeve. From the shoulder point down the outside of a slightly bent arm to the wrist bone.
A shortcut that works well. Take a shirt you already own that fits the way you want, lay it flat, and measure it. Chest is armpit to armpit doubled. Compare those numbers to the brand's chart. This is more reliable than measuring your body, because it captures the fit you actually like rather than a raw dimension.
Does linen size differently from cotton?
Yes, in three ways that matter.
It has no stretch. Unlike jersey, linen does not give, so a shirt that feels close on day one stays close.
It softens after washing. The first wash softens the fabric without changing the fit. A shirt that feels a touch stiff and precise when it arrives is normal.
It is cut looser on purpose. Most linen shirts are cut with more room than the equivalent cotton, because airflow is the whole point of the fabric. A linen shirt fitted close to the body cancels its own main advantage. If a linen shirt feels roomier than you expected, that is usually intentional rather than a sizing error.
Net effect: if you are between sizes in linen, size up. The cut is close through the shoulder and armhole, and linen has no stretch.
Does linen shrink?
A small amount on the first wash, which good brands account for in the cut. After that it is stable, provided you wash it cold and hang it to dry.
What causes real shrinkage is heat. Hot water and a tumble dryer will shrink linen meaningfully and permanently. Cold wash, hang dry, and the shirt settles rather than shrinks. There is more in how to wash and care for linen.
How should a linen shirt actually fit?
Looser than a dress shirt, closer than a beach shirt.
Shoulders. The seam should sit at or very slightly past the bony point of your shoulder. Past that and the shirt looks borrowed. Short of it and it pulls.
Chest. You should be able to pinch a few centimetres of fabric at the side. If it is skin-tight there is no airflow, which defeats the fabric.
Sleeves. Slightly long is better than slightly short, because you will roll them constantly in an Australian or New Zealand summer. A sleeve cut short does not roll cleanly.
Length. Untucked, it should finish somewhere around the middle of your fly. Longer looks like a nightshirt, shorter rides up when you move.
Full breakdown, including how the hem should sit untucked, in how should a linen shirt fit.
What if I am between sizes?
Size up. The cut is close through the shoulder and armhole, and linen has no stretch.
Shoulders decide it. Shoulder width cannot be altered. Chest room can be taken in by a tailor for very little money. Fit the shoulder and adjust the rest.
A deliberately relaxed silhouette is a different question. Some people want linen loose and flowing, and that is a legitimate choice rather than a fit error.
Where to buy, and what to check first
Before ordering from any overseas brand, look for three things on the product page. A published chest measurement in centimetres, not just a letter. A stated model reference so you can calibrate. And a clear returns policy, including who pays return postage from Australia or New Zealand, which is often the real cost of a wrong size.
I make Santoli Napoli in Napoli, 100% linen, at $139. Sizing runs M through 2XL on a relaxed cut, so most Australian and New Zealand buyers take their usual alpha size and size up if they are between. The cut is close through the shoulder and armhole, and linen has no stretch. Prices display in Australian and New Zealand dollars at checkout.
The Italian collar collection and the mandarin collar collection share the same cut, so a size that works in one works in the other. Linen trousers at $99 run on a drawstring waist, which removes most of the sizing risk on the bottom half. The Positano Capsule at $119 uses the same shirt cut in thirteen colourways, each colourway made once, no restock.
Frequently asked questions
Is an Australian L the same as a US L?
Generally yes. Australian and New Zealand alpha sizing tracks US sizing closely enough that ordering from a US store is straightforward. Alpha sizing is not standardised between brands though, so check the brand's chest measurement in centimetres rather than trusting the letter.
What is an AU L in European sizing?
Roughly a 41 to 42 collar in centimetres, which corresponds to a 16.5 to 17 inch collar in UK sizing. European brands size shirts by collar rather than chest, so you will need your neck measurement as well as your chest.
Should I size up or down in linen?
Up, if you are between sizes. The cut is close through the shoulder and armhole, and linen has no stretch. Most linen shirts are cut looser than the equivalent cotton to allow airflow. If your shoulders are broad relative to your chest, fit the shoulder and have the body taken in.
Does linen shrink after washing?
A small amount on the first wash, which is accounted for in the cut. It is stable after that if you wash cold and hang dry. Hot water and a tumble dryer will shrink it meaningfully and permanently.
How do I measure my chest for a shirt?
Around the fullest part, usually just under the armpits, with the tape level all the way round and snug but not pulled tight. Breathe normally. Alternatively, lay flat a shirt that already fits how you like and measure armpit to armpit, then double it.
Which measurement matters most?
Shoulder width, because it cannot be altered. Chest can be taken in cheaply by a tailor, sleeves can be shortened, but a shirt cut too narrow across the shoulders will never sit correctly.
Should I judge the fit before or after washing?
Either. The first wash softens the fabric without changing the fit, so a shirt that feels slightly crisp and precise out of the bag is normal. Wash cold and hang dry.
What does Santoli Napoli sizing run like?
Relaxed rather than fitted, M through 2XL. Most Australian and New Zealand buyers take their usual alpha size, and size up if between. Shirts are $139, or $119 in the Positano Capsule, and prices display in local currency at checkout.